Blog from Sucre, Bolivia

July 20, 2009

More photos at:

http://picasaweb.google.com/peacepedalers/BlessingsInBolivia?feat=directlink

Big Love from lovely Sucre, Bolivia!

Bolivia is rocking my world in every way. My three days in Camiri were magical with live music, traditional dance and a huge festival going on to sample food, people and tons of smiles. Mauro was my first rider in Bolivia and he and I adventured both in Camiri and out of the city to my first stop in Ipati. We rolled the cameras into Ipati and the magic unfolded by meeting a cool cat Oscar who invited us to stay the night, eat and share a slice of life in the Bolivian Chaco with he and his family. My adventures in Bolivia were off to a great start.

Festivals = Treats = Happy Binks!

My Bolivian Brother Mauro with his 2 pets--Cat and Rat

Mauro and I out on a sunset ride in Camiri

Our host Oliver and his family in Ipati--unforgettable home stay!

Mauro headed back the next day and I began riding the rugged dirt roads heading for the highlands. The climbs and roads were brutal but I was having a blast. But at my lunch stop I realized that the small crack in my bike frame I discovered back in Camiri was getting worse from the off-road riding. I checked my map and decided to do a wild hitching mission to some roads in better condition. My map turned out to be wrong and the roads were not much better up in Padilla but I rode onwards with low tire pressure looking for adventure.

My first broken frame--still rollin...

I could not find any guest riders going my way on the challenging head-wind infested rocky road to Tomina but I ended up meeting a handful of friendly locals when I arrived who invited me to stay with their family. The experiences were unforgettably rich, living and bonding with some truly special souls beating to a drum so pleasantly different than mine. My two planned riders the next day had to cancel in the morning so I hit the road solo for another day of tough riding, getting painful rejections from a few very worthy riders who, for some reason, chose walking or taking a bus than riding—perhaps it has something to do with the insane climbs and butt-crushing bumpy roads?

By the time I was just outside the town of Zudenez my body was totally exhausted after climbing over 3,000 vertical feet on sandy roads into a headwind—oh, without any suspension since it’s been out since Argentina and parts on the way to Chile. Again I struck out with riders all day and my physical and mental state was not so hot. I met a truck driver Jose who offered to take me up to Tarabuco where proper asphalt would start and to give my body and bike a much needed break. I was battling a cold to boot, so the rest would do me good.

I asked at least a dozen people to come riding in Tarabuco but again had to hit the road solo for a 65km ride to Sucre. Luckily the 14 hours of sleep did me good and I was feeling strong for another tough day of climbing the endless hills of Bolivia—and now I was pedaling up at about 10,000+ feet so the air was thin. Luckily the headwind mellowed out and the pavement and stunning views were just what the doctor ordered to get my spirits back again—not to mention the thought of getting a proper meal, shower and checking some music and nightlight that weekend (always a good motivator for me)

After six of the most challenging days of touring to date Sucre was a site for sore eyes. After climbing again well over 3,000 feet over the day I descended from the dry, brown and mostly featureless countryside into an oasis that blew me away. Sucre is called the “white city” for its lovely white colonial architecture and it’s a true gem. I felt at home from the first moment I arrived—just the right size, not too big and not too small. I was eager to rest up my sore legs and explore what Bolivia’s capital had to offer.

I could write forever on the magical experiences I’ve had since landing in Sucre but I’ll keep this blog short and encourage you to read the newsletter when it comes out. The summary goes like this…

Met the owner of Bibliocafe Renato and his sister Marcia who LOVED the Peace Pedalers project and invited me to film a local rock concert the next day and styled me with yummy food and cold beers. Next day I rode with some cool indigenous folks on the way to search for traditional music and ran into Renato and his family who took me to a private concert that was just starting the moment I arrived by Los Masis, one of Bolivia’s top traditional music groups.

From there I met one of the band members Roberto, who became like a brother at first site. From there I met Sonja, a cool Czech volunteer English teacher who offered to be my assistant at the rock concert later that night. Then a cool cat Bruno I met way back in Muyupampa joins Sonja and I at the concert location where Renato styles our team out with lovely food and some of South America’s finest beers. Nice!

The concert rocked until 2AM and Bruno and I began to talk about starting a charity project to bring water to small villages in the campo. Roberto and Rene then show up, members of the Los Masis band, and after the concert we kept the party rockin heading out to enjoy Sucre’s nightlife until 5AM with great new friends from around the world. Life is good!

Yesterday was another magical day where I ended up riding with Roberto up to a small barrio to meet an musician Miguel at his family’s salt stall. This turned out to be a private concert by Miguel, Roberto and an old drunk yet talented guy who grabbed the guitar and ripped out numerous stellar songs that Roberto just happened to know as well. Roberto sings like no other and has performed worldwide so I’m sure the hi-def video will be stellar. Trying to get a utube video on this for ya…classic! From there we went back to Los Masis cultural center where we discovered food, culture, history and a personal interview with one of the founders Roberto, followed by another private concert by Miguel and his sister playing traditional pan flutes of Bolivia—unforgettable.

A private concert by Miguel and his sister

As if it could not get any better, today we were invited to film and experience some of Sucre’s best food and top chefs at Restaurant El Huerto. They had a full spread set up and showed us and the world via video how to make two yummy traditional meals with many lovely touches and we ate, drank and celebrated just before Rene put on a private show of his skills playing the “kena” flute that blew us all away.

I’m now just ready to go meet with Bruno and Roberto to talk about our charity project, now called “Aqua por Vida” or Water for Life. We hope to get the ball rolling on our first pilot project at a small village near where Bruno and I met that is in dire need of water. Stay tuned—very excited.

My first kilo of coca--I have a new strategy to bond with the locals on the way to Potosi

The two founders of "Operation Agua" in our office makin' plans--stay tuned!!

I’ll be heading out on a very tough 3-day ride Wednesday to Potosi, the world’s highest city at 13,420 feet, with a new strategy to find riders and connect with the local people. I’ll be bringing coca leaves as a gift to the elders and have a new sound system for the bike to crank Bolivian music—that should warm up the locals for my next journey! I’ve got 2 riders lined up between now and then and many more cool experiences to be had. Super excited about how Bolivia is shaping out! From Potosi I’ll make my way to Uyuni to experience the stellar Salar before making my way to Atacama to relax at Atacama Adventure Wellness & Ecolodge where much needed rest and massages await!

Come to Bolivia! You’ll love it!