Challenging the Rainbow

3-11-08

Yes, the Jamie Rainbow is back, but it sure got a challenge in the last 26 hours! With the boat to Casamance in limbo I was told there was transport down to this magical region where I’d begin my expedition north through Gambia and up to Morocco. But I had no idea what I was getting myself into until just yesterday!

I got a late start and arrived at the bus station later than I should have and the shared taxi wanted to charge me 20 bucks to take my bike and gear so I was convinced to take the shared bus for ½ the price with the locals. What I did not know is that it was going to take two hours to leave and it would stop for anything, anytime anyone wanted to get on or off. I’m still a bit rusty on my African travel stills, obviously.

I got a seat right on the sunny side with no window, so off to a steamy start from the get go. Progress was slow as ever with stops every few minutes, and I doubted we’d make it to Casamance by nightfall. When we finally made it to the Gambian border, it took us 4 hours to go through 4 border posts and take a boat across the Gambia river. But it really starts getting nuts when we were just 50km from Ziguinchor, our final destination.

Since Ziguinchor area has had some political problems the military did not want any traffic moving at night. Soooooo, for the 4^th time since being on the road in Africa, we were forced to sleep right there on the road! The weather seemed nice enough at the time so I grabbed my thermarest and ground cloth to catch some rest. What I was not prepared for was the freezing cold temperatures that came as the night went on! My sleeping bag was buried under tons of stuff and I had to wrap myself in a ground cloth freezing all night long, so I only got a few winks of sleep. It was nutty!

But, I kept my cool and 26 hours later we finally arrived here in Ziguinchor and I’m going to take an extra day to get my bearings before pedaling off. Found a great pad called Le Flamboyant that has Wifi, pool and great rooms at the best price in all Senegal so the Rainbow is not far behind.

I’m excited as ever to get out pedaling again. I"m a bit weary of the political situation so am waiting now to chat w/ the hotel owners about my route to make sure I'm not venturing off into any danger zones. For the most part I'm very refreshed and the lingering cough is just about finished. Nothing some good breathing and water can’t flush out! Over and out from Casamance, Southern Senegal.

Jamie

The Rainbow is Back!

It’s been a rocky start and re-entry was rough but I’m happy to report that the Jamie Rainbow is back—this magical force that seemed to guide me through my journeys and attract just the right people and experiences. I had some personal hurdles to overcome that seemed to manifest into susceptibility to sickness. The body follows the mind, I always say.

So my crazy cough, brought on by my emotional state and the thick dust of the Harmattan (see photo of the scenery, or lack thereof, in N. Benin below) finally backed off after 5 days of pampering at my brother from another mother Hugo and Stephan’s Oasis in Cotonou with my own room, WIFI, aircon, chef and regular trips to the ocean.

The Harmattan dust makes the roads look like this...


A flower power party was just what I needed in Cotonou, Benin


A a nice day relaxing on Jamie Island...

I have found a home in West Africa, and Benin is it. I’ve met some friends for life there and a sense of community was just what the doctor ordered all around.

After many great meals, surfs, chillin sessions and a bit of work I finally caught my plane to Senegal. I had to pay a bit, for the first time in about 5 years, for my baggage but I can’t complain. I had planned to catch a boat to Casamance in southern Senegal but due to a big Islamic conference they canceled i. I saw that, and the the arrival of a beautiful swell of great waves from the north (7 feet at 13 seconds to all you surfers), I decided to extend my pampering for a few more days and surf my tail off.

I was blessed to meet the owner of Tribal Surf Shop Cyril here in town and he set me up with my board, wetsuit and board bag that allowed me to turn my tandem into a surf mobile. I also met a French woman Silvi who has turned her home into a small B&B and I felt immediately at home. I was greeted by a wild Italian man Franco who was visiting Silvi and we hit it off big time. He decided to cook me his “Mama’s Favorite Pasta” with pork cheek and lots of love.

The surf mobile checkin the waves ;)

Cooking at Sylvi's place with French, Senegalese, Italian and American influences

Good fun with new friends!

And pleeennnnty of surf. This is Rene, a local surfer and cool cat

The weekend was full of waves, sun, more waves, great people and more waves and all full of energy to head off tomorrow for a 2 week expedition of S. Senegal in the Casamance region and Gambia. I honestly caught some of the best waves of my life and if you like to surf, put Dakar on your radar screen stat! My rainbow has also attracted some great people lined up along the way and tons of musicians who I’ll be recording when I come back to Dakar once more for another dose of surf and fun before hitting the Sahara Desert up to Mauritania and Morocco.

Big love!

Jamie

February 28, 10:38 AM

I’m somewhere off the map now in northern Benin sitting in the only shade could find, which happens to be right next to dozens of bottles of illegal petrol which are making quite a toxic shade location. I’m staring at my broken down bus, which ½ dozen people are trying to fix with pieces of paper, parts of a tree, and a maize sack full of random tools.

I’m returning back to Cotonou on an 8 hour bus ride 3 days earlier than expected. I tried to muscle through a growing infection in my chest and sinuses but they got the best of me. Sadly, I only made it 20KM of the hilly, sandy, Harmaten wind blanketed region of Natitingou and the Somba country. Each kilometer that went by I coughed up something scary looking, and I decided to cut my losses and turn back to heal up before heading to Senegal for the last leg up to Morocco, which I’ve been warned is a doozy.

It’s frustrating and boggling to me right now why I was able to crank through 11 countries in south and east Africa without any illness and here I am now with back to back physical challenges in Togo and now Benin. I’m going to give myself some time not only to heal physically, but to do some writing and meditating to clear my head and get grounded and strong once again.

Looks like they rigged the bus up as it’s running and the driver is honking, gotta run.

Big love and bigger green alien colored boogers from Benin!

Update: 5:21PM, same day

7 hours later we have made it about 150km with a bus that’s spewing out rich black smoke and doing about 10km/hour up any kind of incline—and there are plenty in northern Benin. The heat is still pumping, ventilation limited (my thermometer was over 100 degrees several times on the bus) and my cough is getting worse. I’ll be arriving into Cotonou well after dark and have to find a way to Hugo’s place where I’ll finally get a chance to nurse myself back to health. End gripe session.

Africa is a great place to travel, but when you are not feeling well, it takes all the patience and tolerance you can muster to keep your cool. Right now the greasy guys have spare parts all over the ground and it’s a mystery when we’ll get rolling again. Ahhhh Africa. I’m sure I’ll miss it when it’s gone, but right now I want the BLEEP out!

Saturday 3/1/08, 3:17 PM

Two days later, after some rest in bed back at Hugos, half dozen Divx movies, some more anti-biotics, many liters of water and a nice surf I’m at about 75%. I’ve got some dry coughs but no more alien green lung butters so on the up n up. Bummed to have missed the ride up north but grateful to have friends here in town. All sunned and salted it’s Saturday night in the capital of Benin. Life could be worse ;)

Over n out from Benin!

Jamie

Bye Bye Togo, Hello Benin

Benin is where I started my 6 country Central West African loop and I'm finally back where I started, about 7 months later. I spent about about a month here learning a bit of French and gearing up with new equipment after my East African adventures and I'm back in with my bros Hugo and Stephane. I arrived yesterday and eating, surfing and relaxing before off n pedaling in Benin. Here's a quick tour of Togo...Enjoy!


Bridget at 10KM of a planned 65KM ride and Me dead in bed for 56 hours

So you heard about my sickness...super nasty. Cipro took her down and I was soon on the road again w/ my Togolese friends who came all the way from Accra to chill with me.

My relief crew in from Ghana to tend to binks
Some funky dancing at a voodoo ceremony


Meet Isaac--we found each other on Facebook!
And I knocked him out on his first day ;)

Debora getting a healing lift for her bum foot
Out on day two pedaing the backroads with Isaac





Gina's mom Akouvi's neighbor is amazing
Enjoying one of Akouvi's awesome meals in Vogan with Gina's brother Felix

As you can see from the pics, it went from good, to bad, to amazing. Isaac and I spent 3 nights and 4 days riding together and I now have a brother in Togo. Amazing... And such great hospitality, willingness to help and welcome...beyond words.

Many folks give Togo a quick pass through as it's not the most welcoming country, no way. But the coldness on the outside warms up once the Togolese folks know you. In fact, once you are "in", then you are like family and there is no warmer place on earth.

The religion is very interesting, with traditional beliefs still dominant--namely, Voodoo. Very cool, non threatening, and pretty much the same as many religions with a focus on sacrifice and a belief in a higher power; but it's very colorful and unique, a must see!

The filming is only getting better with a focus on letting the people become the hosts--I'm just along for the ride :) they love it! I love it!

Blogs don't have to really make sense, so I'll just leave it at that. I'm chillin hard in Benin now--eating rich food, surfing all day tomorrow and Sunday, and livin Big after the recent adventures.

Over n out from Cotonou!

Jamie

From Heaven to Hell and Back in Togo...

Quick update from Togo while internet is up since it's been down all over for days.

I crossed the border and all was just dandy...palm trees, smiling faces, less traffic, the ocean on my right...all good. caught some amazing live music and met a lovely new Togolese friend Bridget who wanted to prove she could handle a 65km ride on the tandem. We hit the road the next day and all was peachy until about the 30km mark when I totally ran out of steam. We cut it early in Aneho where I grew totally ill with a 105 fever, chills, aches and zero energy.

I had to drop Bridget off at her village the next day and seek refuge of a cheap guesthouse in Lome to get better...but I only got worse. To make a long nighmare short, I was dead in bed from Friday to Sunday sicker than i have been in years and missed the whole weekend in Lome. But thanks to the wonderful drug Cipro I finally took Saturday I was good to go Sunday and met my Togolese crew who came to greet me from Accra.

So back to Heavenly good times...stayed in a cool village outside Lome with Kwame's dad, a new friend Isaac, and the whole family. caught some great vooodoo ceremony, and for last few days have been bonding with a cool new friend Issaac who found me on facebook and now we're good mates pedaling around cool country roads here in Togo lovin life!

that's the latest....few more days here then on my way to Benin for some more adventures, surf, and good times!

Peace,

Jamie

After an emotional roller coaster re-entry I'm settled into my life back on the road here in Africa! I have to say that I got quite spoiled and way too comfortable on my last trip to the USA and when I returned to the heat, pollution, physical and mental challenges, and long distance from those I love I struggled for several days. But I'm happy to say I'm rolling on happily after an amazing 5 day expedition from Busua Beach to Accra.



Ghana was actually the best re-entry country as it is mostly English speaking and pretty civilized. But with the "prosperity" of West Africa's leading industrial nation comes way too many cars! The road along the coast was one of the most challenging I've experienced with all the traffic and little or no shoulder, but I made it alive and well! Add to that that Harmatan headwind winds bringing in dust from the Sahara desert into my lungs with all the pollution and heat and you get my drift...




But wow, the Ghanaian people are beyond amazing. My hosts Kwame and Gina were so gracious and supported me all the way with daily calls and we could not wait to see each other again! The hospitality of the locals here is truly amazing, and you feel embraced and celebrated every day.

After a few tough days emotionally I eventually grew stronger, more open, more tolerant and ready to rock the country. I rode with about 12 people along my route, and made some friendships that will last a lifetime no doubt! I was also able to watch Ghana go all the way to the Semi finals of the Africa Cup and root the team on to a 3rd place finish. I was a bit rusty on my filming and hosting skills, but it all came together in the end and we captured some truly awesome moments and great interviews from some truly wise and conscious Ghanaian folks.






So after celebrating my 36th birthday with Kwame, Gina and dozens of new friends here in Ghana I'm finally off tomorrow to Togo where I'm blessed to have more people waiting for me there to show me the unique and exciting culture barely touched by the western world. And then it's back to Benin to finally do some riding there and, of course, meet up with my bros Hugo and crew for some more surfing!

I feel blessed to have this opportunity to be here and share all this with you guys. I know it sounds scary to head into Africa, but if you can face the fears, Ghana is a great "Ghana for Beginners" you will love it! North American Air has direct flights from JFK so it's pretty darn painless :)

Over and out for now!

Live Big. Give Big :)

Jamie

Blog 2-3-08

Greetings form Busua Beach, Ghana! I’ve been in Ghana for about a week now getting geared up for a huge 10 month expedition of West Africa and Europe and the butterflies are flying fast and furious in my stomach. It’s all about taking the first step, but I have to admit it’s pretty scary right now. But tomorrow I set off and will make the first pedal strokes of the final leg of the 2^nd stage of this expedition.

I was greeted at the airport by my good friends Kwame and his wife Gina and they managed to find me a cheap hotel in the middle of the huge Africa Cup soccer tournament, which was a rare find indeed. We watched Ghana upset Morocco and go to the quarter finals and it was a good welcome into Ghana indeed. We lined up an interview the papers, got my visa to Togo and Benin (an all day affair!), and got the bike and gear all organized for the trip!

Now I’m at the beach doing some surfing at a friend Peter’s surf camp here where I was blessed with a new swell, offshore winds, no crowds and warm water. Today is my last day of surfing 4 hour sessions and it’s back on the road to discovery the real, modern day culture of Ghana on the historic Cape Coast to Accra.

I have a great Mali newsletter coming soon! Stay tuned!

Jamie ;)

It's been a wild ride of editing two sample episodes of the TV series and fundraising for Europe and the Americas over the past 1.5 months. I'm finally coming up for some air. My resting pad at my girlfriend Kelly's house looks like a bomb hit it, and I'm getting ready to hit the road for the holidays in S. California for some family time. But if anyone wants to check out the videos (still a work in progress) love to hear your feedback. Just head to http://www.peacepedalers.com/tvseries.html and there's a few videos to explore!

Hope to see many of you on the road next trip out to Africa and Europe!

Jamie

Greetings from San Francisco, California!

I just recovered from what appears to be a bout with Malaria. I had a 104+ fever for several days and fortunately had Coartem treatments with me and self medicated. It was NOT a happy week last week. But it's been great being home with family, friends and my new sweetheart Kelly and I'm preparing our "Sneak Preview Screening" of the Peace Pedaler TV series for our fundraising party on November 15th, so mark your calendar if you are in the Bay Area. I'll get around to the updates of Mali and Burkina Faso as soon as I can, but have many other items on the front burner so thanks for the patience!

Big love!

Jamie

Quick update from Accra, Ghana! I'm a few hours from getting on a plane back home for a much needed visit and I'm as excited as ever! I had a super adventure in Burkina Faso and fell in love with that country indeed. I did have some challenges, but they all turned out to be in divine order as great things happened as a result. I did my first "urban Peace Pedaling" session and it was quite exciting and I'm sure you'll dig the footage and adventure yourself soon.

Ghana has been amazing as well. I've been hosted by a lovely couple Jina and Kwame who are treating me like royalty and making me feel right at home. I'll be looking forward to returning here for the next session of the African expedition.

But for now...OFF TO USA!!! WHOOO HOOO!

Peace,

Jamie

Just a quick update from here in Burkina Faso. I had an unforgettable 2 week adventure in Mali including an off-road adventure of the magical Dogon Country and a few days in Djenne. I had several setbacks with camera and bike equipment as well as transport that set my schedule back several days so I’m afraid I can’t take time to write too much. I WILL tell you all that Mali rocks and you should put it on your travel schedule, especially the Dogon region. The people, nature and culture are truly stunning. I only have about a week to ride and capture Burkina Faso so I’m deep in planning and fixing mode right now before shipping off from here in Bobo Dioulasso. I’ll try to write more later but for now I’m a busy boy! Here are a few pics :)

Sorry for the delay here folks, had some technical difficulties...

After three extremely hot, wild and wacky days of 4 wheel transport I FINALLY made it to the live music capital of the world Bamako, Mali! I had to huff it out here to pick up some camera and bike parts that could unfortunately only be delivered to the capital of Mali.

After 5 great days of riding in Niger with so many sweet souls I hit the end of the road and all that was left were dusty, sandy, barren terrain all the way to Gao in Mali. I decided to take a lift with a Land Rover and it turned out to have no brakes, horrible tires that blew out twice, a dead gear box and flat battery that died when the lights came on. It took us 33 hours to go about 250 kilometers. Somehow I kept my cool—perhaps over a year in Africa has helped me cope with lunacy like this.

Then it was a connecting bus from Gao to Bamako for another 19 hours of hot, stinky, loud and wild bussin it to Bamako! Needless to say, I was a mess upon arrival.

I’m happy to report that I was welcomed by a great Danish chap Joachim for my first night and am now being hosted for 3 days and two nights of five star luxury by the Kempinski Hotel right on the Niger River to clean up, charge up, regroup and prepare for the Mali adventure.

I’ve already got several great contacts for live music to record for you guys (and me, of courseJ) and have a sweet route of some epic Mali adventures planned for next week. Below are some of the Niger adventure—I’ll get an update sooner than you normal too!

Over and out from Mali!

Jamie

Sorry for the delay here folks, had some technical difficulties...

After three extremely hot, wild and wacky days of 4 wheel transport I FINALLY made it to the live music capital of the world Bamako, Mali! I had to huff it out here to pick up some camera and bike parts that could unfortunately only be delivered to the capital of Mali.

After 5 great days of riding in Niger with so many sweet souls I hit the end of the road and all that was left were dusty, sandy, barren terrain all the way to Gao in Mali. I decided to take a lift with a Land Rover and it turned out to have no brakes, horrible tires that blew out twice, a dead gear box and flat battery that died when the lights came on. It took us 33 hours to go about 250 kilometers. Somehow I kept my cool—perhaps over a year in Africa has helped me cope with lunacy like this.

Then it was a connecting bus from Gao to Bamako for another 19 hours of hot, stinky, loud and wild bussin it to Bamako! Needless to say, I was a mess upon arrival.

I’m happy to report that I was welcomed by a great Danish chap Joachim for my first night and am now being hosted for 3 days and two nights of five star luxury by the Kempinski Hotel right on the Niger River to clean up, charge up, regroup and prepare for the Mali adventure.

I’ve already got several great contacts for live music to record for you guys (and me, of courseJ) and have a sweet route of some epic Mali adventures planned for next week. Below are some of the Niger adventure—I’ll get an update sooner than you normal too!

Over and out from Mali!

Jamie

Sorry for the delay here folks, had some technical difficulties...

After three extremely hot, wild and wacky days of 4 wheel transport I FINALLY made it to the live music capital of the world Bamako, Mali! I had to huff it out here to pick up some camera and bike parts that could unfortunately only be delivered to the capital of Mali.

After 5 great days of riding in Niger with so many sweet souls I hit the end of the road and all that was left were dusty, sandy, barren terrain all the way to Gao in Mali. I decided to take a lift with a Land Rover and it turned out to have no brakes, horrible tires that blew out twice, a dead gear box and flat battery that died when the lights came on. It took us 33 hours to go about 250 kilometers. Somehow I kept my cool—perhaps over a year in Africa has helped me cope with lunacy like this.

Then it was a connecting bus from Gao to Bamako for another 19 hours of hot, stinky, loud and wild bussin it to Bamako! Needless to say, I was a mess upon arrival.

I’m happy to report that I was welcomed by a great Danish chap Joachim for my first night and am now being hosted for 3 days and two nights of five star luxury by the Kempinski Hotel right on the Niger River to clean up, charge up, regroup and prepare for the Mali adventure.

I’ve already got several great contacts for live music to record for you guys (and me, of courseJ) and have a sweet route of some epic Mali adventures planned for next week. Below are some of the Niger adventure—I’ll get an update sooner than you normal too!

Over and out from Mali!

Jamie

Blog Sep 1, 2007, Tilibery, Niger

Quick update from the road here folks. Getting an internet connection to work enough to just post this has been an adventure, I tell ya!

I just spent three glorious days of riding and filming from Niamey to Tilibery and I'm taking a day of much needed rest. The desert riding is tough if you ride after 10AM as the temperatures are well into the 100's. Out Peace Pedaling I often am on the schedule of my guest riders and all three days was out I was in the midday sun cooking like a white egg while my guests got chilly in the shade! Nuts!

But I had a blast riding with three amazing new friends Koudede, Moussa and Hassan. After my ride with my musician buddy Koudede out of Niamey I camped out with a caretake of a golf course (yes, golf in Niger!) named Ali the first night on the Niger River. The next night, after my ride with Moussa who I picked up in the town of Karma, I slept in the village of Lossa with a lovely man named Hassan who I met on the road and his family after a great meal of village grub and a dance fest at someone's wedding. It was a long day that day, about 75KM, and it took a lot out of me riding in the heat.

Yesterday Hassan joined me and we rode here just 45KM but it took every bit of life out of me as we got a very late start due to a morning rain storm. Add to that the fact there was no real food of any power to eat after the rain cleared at 11AM and we rode until 3PM in 110+ degree heat with minmima fuel in our bodies. How tought was it--even Hassan passed out in my hotel room when we finally arrived and showered up. We were toast!

I had planned to ride today but am totally spent. Going to hydrate and stretch and hop a Bush Taxi later this afternoon the next town for a rest day then charge on to the colorful Sunday market in Ayorou tomorrow bright and early before the heat feeling strong and rested. I'll be hitting the Mali border in a few days.

Loving Niger--very peaceful, GREAT PEOPLE, and truly a pleasure to travel in if you can minimize the time in the sun and are patient enough to find good food. Note to self...:)

Over and out from Niger :)

Jamie

Rocking in Niger

Quick update here folks from Niamey, Niger. I just recorded

two of Niger's most exciting and soulful musicians at the

Grand Hotel on the Niger river at sunset--huge success, great

quality recording and video, and we all had a

blast. The artists were very happy to hear a studio quality recording of

themselves as they simply don't have real good studios here

and they are a fortune for them. A triple win--win for them,

win for you future viewers of the show, and win for me who

hopes to make a living from all this hard work :)



I said goodbye to my hosts for one week Sascha and Judith and

decided to give them some space while I continue my

fundraising campaign from Niger with a goal to raise enough

cash this year to take me all the way to 2009 in N. America.



I'm working my tail off--12-15 hours a day on the net,

PowerPoint proposals going out to sponsors, website,

newsletters, fundraising party, video editing/screening

project, filming, planning, etc. But it's all flowing from

within and a power greater than me is driving me so it's not

really work, just life.

My plan is to be riding in next 48 hours or so with all the

wheels turning and balls up in the air so I can catch them

when I get to Mali, readjust, and toss more up till Burkina

Faso then Ghana then USA for the real show. Exciting times

indeed.

The next posting will be a bit more culturally focused, for

now, this is my life--gotta take care of the adminstration to

make this show go on to the end!

Big love to ya all from Niger!

Jamie

Niamey, Niger:

I left my West Africa nest and base camp of Cotonou, Benin last Saturday after a festive last day of surfing and a late night on the town with my new friends at on a 4AM bus, just a few short days before my visa would expire. I spent almost a month preparing and straegizing for the expedition to Morocco and it was finally time to move on.


I had 3 seats in a row on the bus all to myself and crashed out like a baby till 10AM! There was ho sweat or any charges for the bike, thanks to the angel Elizabeth who happened to be on the bus with me and able to help communicate with the bus company owners as they tried to extort funds for carrying my bike and load. It was a long, 17 hour ride, but all good.

I'm now being hosted again in a sweet pad with another local Ex Pat worker Sascha and his Swiss lady Judith who work with the UN and the EC and they are taking fine care of me indeed. I'm getting spoiled with this new discovery of Ex Pats and their massive houses, cars and luxurious lifestyles. But right now it's exactly what I need to focus and get everything ready--fixing up the production equipment of 4 video cameras, the bike, trailer, bags, chargers, batteries, tripods and mounts, etc. Minus the fact that my helmet camera decided to die yesterday and I received the wrong size disc brake rotor, everything is going pretty smooth. I'm also using this time to finish my sponsorship renewal proposals to gear up funds for 2008 in Europe.



I spent the last few days as well lining up some good music for the show. Just google Koudede from Niger—Agedez, Niger. He's a cool cat performing traditional Touareg music from North Niger. I met just sniffing around the cultural centers and hacking away at my French, which is getting better every day. Also just added a female artist singing modern-traditional pop will join the private concert overlooking the sunset on the Niger River. As soon as I solve a few issues with my gear and record a concert here in the capital, I'll be on the road again, following the Niger river, passing out Malaria meds to very vulnerable villages and connecting with my world once again on two wheels.



Over and out from Niamey, Niger!










Famous Touareg Artist Koudede